Jul. 08, 2024
For a complete guide to all Textile Indies basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
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Mold, light, water, dirt, and staining..all potential problems that can attack your beautifully woven baskets.
I was digging through a basket of yarn the other day when I realized that the basket was growing an unnatural color of green fuzz and it wasnt the yarn!
When I inspected it closer, I found a thin layer of mold growing on my yarn baskets reed and seagrass. My chin hit the floor. A basket that I had worked to create, one that belonged to a set of six matching baskets, was ruined. What a disappointment!
I ran around the house checking all the other baskets in my set. Sure enough, all the others in were showing signs of mold. The baskets had retained or absorbed enough moisture in our Pacific Northwest climate to create a healthy breeding ground for this science experiment.
I made these baskets years ago and didnt realize the importance of protecting the reed from moisture.
Happily, I figured out a way to rescue my hard work.
Heres how I brought them back to life:
I soaked and scrubbed the baskets with Method antibacterial cleaner. I like spearmint, but it comes in a variety of natural scents.
When all signs of mold had been washed away, I set them in front of a fan to speed the drying process and ensure that everything dried thoroughly.
I usually recommend allowing baskets to dry naturally so they dont crack, but in this case, I wanted to get all the moisture out as fast as possible so the mold didnt have a chance to repopulate.
After the baskets dried, I took a spray can of Danish Oil Wood sealer (clear natural) and sprayed each basket inside and out. I put two coats on each basket, allowing them to dry for 20 minutes between each coat (the can says 10 minutes between each coat, but I ended up waiting 20 minutes to be sure).
Danish Oil spray or brush on will protect baskets from mold and dirt.This oil stain smells, so I suggest keeping the baskets outdoors while they dry and letting them de-stink before bringing them into the house. The smell goes away after about two days.
Also, dont spray this stuff in the house, do it outside! It comes out in a mist that fills the air with little droplets not good to breathe.
The Danish Oil I used darkened the reed slightly. I prefer the lighter natural reed color, so this is what I was going for. I am happy with the outcome and will be using this on future baskets.
In the past, I have used a canned oil or water-based wood sealer and applied it with a brush. This is another option (potentially cheaper, though I havent done the math).
I have used this sealer with a good outcome: Watco Danish Oil Finish.
I discovered that the spray can is a lot more convenient, easy to use, and super easy to clean up. I found the spray sealer at basketweaving.com here.
We put a lot of time and money into our handwoven baskets; its important to take good care of them. Though sealing them may not be the most natural thing to do, I do like that my baskets dont mold when sealed.
Every other Friday, I send an chock full of fiber craft inspiration for you to explore.
Each issue focuses on one fiber art skill spinning, dyeing, basket weaving
Sign up HereI hope you can save any of your baskets that have seen better days.
For a complete list of basket terminology:
Basket Weavers Glossary
For a complete guide to all Textile Indies basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
How to Cut Reed for Basket Stakes
How to Weave an Open Basket Base
How to Weave a Closed Basket Base
Twining a Basket Base: Creating a Stable Basket
Weaving Techniques for Basket Making
How to Set Up the Rim of a Basket
How to do Basic Lashing on a Basket Rim
How to do Cross-Stitch or X-Lashing on a Basket Rim
Signing Your Handwoven Baskets: Leaving a Legacy
Basket Stains and Sealers: Finishing Your Basket
Check out Textile Indies self-paced basket program if you want to learn to weave beautiful baskets.
Twelve different basket designs with video and written instructional support to learn foundational basketry techniques.
Over the course of twelve months, you will receive one basket pattern and a video with supporting instructional material each month. Start at basket one and weave all twelve.
When it comes to finishing your handwoven baskets, understanding basket stains and sealers is crucial. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know.
(For a complete guide to all Textile Indies basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.)
Can you stain a basket?
Staining a basket is possible. There are many stains on the market in various wood tones and fashion colors that will alter the color of the reed. Weavers may decide to stain a basket to match a rooms decor or create color variety in a grouping of baskets.
Staining a basket is purely an aesthetic choice.
There are several different types of stains on the market. Shades range from natural (light wood) to mahogany (almost black).
If you choose not to stain your basket, use a clear matte sealer to protect your basket from dirt and oils. (See the Sealing section below.)
Can you seal a basket?
Using the right basket stains and sealers can significantly enhance the longevity and appearance of your baskets. Lets delve into the different options available.
It is possible and desirable to seal a basket. Staining baskets is an aesthetic decision, but sealers protect the reed from moisture, which can cause mildew and mold growing on a basket.
See my post, How to Protect Your Baskets, for more about recovering a basket from mildew and mold in the event it does happen.
Another reason to stain your baskets is to protect them from dirt and oils. Sealers will seal the reed so that oils from your hands and other substances wont wear away the integrity of the reed and seagrass.
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In addition, the sealer will make it much easier to clean the basket if it does get dusty or dirty.
This is the natural color of a reed basket. Weavers can choose to change the color to suit their needs.For a complete list of basket terminology:
Basket Weavers Glossary
The weaving process requires the reed to stay damp. Allowing a basket to dry protects the reed from mildew and picking up dirt.
Dry your basket in a space with lots of airflow. Its preferable to allow the reed to dry naturally rather than with a hair dryer or placing the basket near a heater. Attempting to speed dry time may cause the reed to become brittle.
A good rule of thumb is to dry your basket for 24-48 hours, depending on the humidity in your area. This will allow the thickest pieces of reed and the layers of the rim to completely dry.
Reed comes in a variety of thicknesses. Allow time for the thickest reed and the multiple layers of the rim to dry completely.You have two main options; a pure wood stain or a stain with built-in sealant.
You will also have a wide array of wood tones and colors to choose from. Visit your nearby home improvement store to see whats available.
And be sure to select a water-based stain. Clean-up will be easier, and the smell will evaporate much faster.
This basket is stained with a very light natural color, including a built-in sealant.First, I suggest testing the stain you choose on a piece of scrap reed before applying it to your basket to double-check that you like the result.
Every other Friday, I send an chock full of fiber craft inspiration for you to explore.
Each issue focuses on one fiber art skill spinning, dyeing, basket weaving
Sign up HereAs I mentioned before, whether or not you stain your basket, sealing it once the basket is dry is a good idea.
A polyurethane finishing product will seal the reed from moisture, dirt, and oils.
Your basket is finished if you use a stain with a built-in sealant. Congratulations!
If not, select a clear, matte sealer to maintain the natural look of the basket.
Or go for something glossy or semi-glossy if you want to add shine to your reed. I suggest testing the sealer on a piece of scrap reed before applying it to your basket to double-check the finished result.
Part of the fun of basket weaving is creating a basket suited to your style and decor. Here are baskets finished with a clear finish sealer. This is my preferred finish because I like the reeds light color and the seagrasss accent against the natural tone. But this is a personal preference.
Ive had success with this sealer from Amazon. You can also find an array of spray sealers at your local hardware store.
Your basket isnt complete yet!
Theres one more step.
Sign your basket.
Check out my post on different methods for signing handwoven baskets.
I would love to see your finished piece. Share your basket on Instagram and tag me @textileindie.
For a complete guide to all Textile Indies basket weaving posts and videos, visit the main Basket Weaving Page.
How to Cut Reed for Basket Stakes
How to Weave an Open Basket Base
How to Weave a Closed Basket Base
Twining a Basket Base: Creating a Stable Basket
Weaving Techniques for Basket Making
How to Set Up the Rim of a Basket
How to do Basic Lashing on a Basket Rim
How to do Cross-Stitch or X-Lashing on a Basket Rim
Signing Your Handwoven Baskets: Leaving a Legacy
How to Protect Your Handwoven Baskets from Mold
Check out Textile Indies self-paced basket program if you want to learn to weave beautiful baskets.
Twelve different basket designs with video and written instructional support to learn foundational basketry techniques.
Over the course of twelve months, you will receive one basket pattern and a video with supporting instructional material each month. Start at basket one and weave all twelve.
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