Surfactants in Shampoo: a Trichologist's Take

What ingredients are in shampoo? 

Shampoo sold in most hair salons is composed of about 10-30 ingredients. Standard components of shampoo include cleansing agents, conditioning agents, stabilizers, and sometimes added fragrance. They&#;re all meant to work synergistically to clean the hair and scalp, keeping it manageable and healthy. 

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Certain formulas offer properties that prevent the hair shafts from tangles and damage while others will help preserve the cuticle layer to keep the hair shiny. Some might also contain active ingredients to treat scalp diseases like psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Not to mention the tailored ingredients to reduce oiliness on the scalp or pityriasis capitis. Stabilizers and other additives might be included to maintain the consistency or shelf-life of the product. Fragrances might be added for a fresh scent on the hair after a washing. 

Needless to say, there&#;s a lot that goes into these formulas. However, the primary active ingredients in shampoo you should know about are surfactants. 

What are surfactants in shampoo? 

Surfactants are cleaning agents in shampoo that works by weakening the bonds between impurities like dirt and oils, allowing them to be easily rinsed away. They dissolve these impurities, preventing them from sticking to the hair or scalp. Shampoo's main purpose is to clean the hair and scalp by removing grease, dirt, sweat, and other residues. The effectiveness of shampoo in cleaning depends largely on the presence of surfactants, especially sulfates.

When you apply shampoo to your hair, surfactant molecules surround oil and dirt particles, allowing them to be dispersed in water. This process, called emulsification, breaks down the oils and dirt, making it easier to rinse them away. Surfactants also create lather, which helps distribute the shampoo evenly and aids in the cleaning process.

Essentially, surfactants enable shampoo to effectively cleanse the hair and scalp by interacting with water and oils, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.

The number of surfactants in general is vast and continuously expanding as new compounds are synthesized and discovered. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of surfactants that have been identified and utilized across various industries, including personal care products like shampoos. Shampoos may contain one or multiple surfactants to achieve the desired cleaning efficacy and lathering properties.

The most well-known surfactants can be broken down into four groups, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. Here&#;s the best way to break these down:

Anionic surfactants

These surfactants have a negatively charged hydrophilic (water-attracting) head. They are effective cleaners but can be harsh on the hair and scalp, potentially causing dryness, frizz, or irritation. According to Dr. Maria Fernanda and Dr. Reis Gavazzoni&#;s publication in Trichology Journal, &#;In order to minimize damage, other surfactants called secondary surfactants such as nonionic and amphoteric surfactants are added to the formulation.&#; 

Some commonly used anionic surfactants include Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS), and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES).

Cationic surfactants

These surfactants have a positively charged hydrophilic head. They are often used in shampoos as conditioning agents to reduce static and improve manageability. Cationic surfactants can help soften and detangle the hair but may cause buildup over time if not rinsed thoroughly. 

Some commonly used cationic surfactants include Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Chloride Cetyl, Behentrimonium Chloride, and Lauryltrimethylammonium chloride. In Dr. Maria Fernanda and Dr. Reis Gavazzoni&#;s publication in Trichology Journal, they mention, &#;They tend to neutralize the negatively charged net of the hair surface and minimize frizz. They are often used as shampoo's softeners.&#;

Nonionic surfactants

These surfactants have no charge and are generally milder than anionic or cationic surfactants. They are commonly used as co-surfactants or emulsifiers in shampoos to enhance cleansing and foam stability. Nonionic surfactants are gentle on the hair and scalp and are often included in formulations for their conditioning and thickening properties.

Some commonly used nonionic surfactants include decylglucoside. Though technically an amphoteric surfactant, Cocamidopropyl Betaine is often used as a co-surfactant in conjunction with nonionic surfactants. It is derived from coconut oil and is known for its mildness and ability to produce rich lather.

Amphoteric surfactants

These surfactants can function as either anionic or cationic depending on the pH of the solution. They are versatile and can provide mild cleansing and conditioning properties. They are generally suitable for sensitive skin and can help maintain the pH balance of the shampoo. 

Based on the publication by Dr. Maria Fernanda and Dr. Reis Gavazzoni in Trichology Journal, &#;They are very mild and have excellent dermatological properties. There are two types of amphoteric compounds: Alkyl Iminopropionates and (Amido) Netaines.&#; This includes Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate.

Hello everyone,

Just wondering if someone could help me to solve this &#; chemist jigsaw&#;?

I did an in-depth online search to try to figure out which anionic surfactants are:Extremely harsh; Very harsh and moderately harsh- In regards to cleansing properties, potential to damage the hair and skin, foaming properties, ability to remove heavy product build up such as quaternary cationic surfactants, cationic polymers; Silicones, proteins and other non soluble ingredients that have the ability to bind to the hair tightly.

However, I am still ensure? Would you say the following is correct?

1. Moderately harsh anionic surfactants:

Sodium laureth sulfate, Sodium Myreth sulphate; Ammonium laureth sulfate, Sodium trideceth sulfate

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*I read that &#;Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) It&#;s a milder derivative of SLS( chemically modified, &#; ethoxylated to be milder than the harsh sodium lauryl sulfate), but still produces a good lather(but don&#;t foam as well)&#;

&#;Ammonium lauryl sulfate has very similar foaming, emulsifying, and cleaning properties to SLES, but with better solubility in water. Better solubility makes it easier to rise off and leaves less residue in washing.&#;

2. Very harsh anionic surfactants

(deep cleansing): Sodium coco sulfate

* I read that &#;Sodium coco sulfate may contain around 40-50% of sodium lauryl sulphate which means it does not foam as well and isn&#;t quite as strong as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

However, sodium lauryl sulphate is a more purified version as the quality of sodium coco-sulfate can be more variable&#;

3. Extremely very harsh surfactants (deep cleansing): excellent foamers and degreasers:

Sodium lauryl sulfate ; TEA lauryl sulfate; C14-16 olefin sulfonate Sodium or Ammonium Xylene sulfonate;TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate ; Sodium Alkylbenzene Sulfonate

I read that &#;olefin sulfonate actually cleanses better than sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); even though it is often added on no sulphate-free shampoos&#;

But some claim it is similar to ether sulphates (SLES)???

sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate has similar qualities to sulphates when it comes to the propensity of irritating skin, but sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate is not a sulfate.

sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate is a strong cleansing agent with the ability for high foaming and a well-emulsifying surfactant. This is an excellent addition to clarifying shampoos.

Thank you in advance

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