Hardening / Tempering 1095 Questions

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Ok, I've searched this forum, as well as the internet, and read until I have a headache, but am so unclear on many things. Seeking comments, but especially corrections as the internet has a wealth of information, it's often incorrect information.

First, I have junkyard steel, it's what I can afford and thus have.

2nd, I'm making narrowish shoes to go on shanks for rippers ahead of a blade for the driveway. 3/4" thick, 1 3/4" high, 4" or so long. Cutting a 45° angle to make the toe. The 45° angle will be facing the dirt, thus be getting the wear.

The steel is pretty easy to work, so it will also probably wear fairly quickly, and I'm thinking it might be a good idea to attempt to harden the face of the steel attacking the dirt.

I've watched videos of spark tests, and frankly, all the sparks look the same to these old, tired, eyes.

From what I've read, heat it up red hot with the torch, and dunk it in used motor oil or water. That's what I have, that's what's cheap, those are my choices.

Depending on the unknown carbon content, it might get hard, it might not. So it'll either wear longer, or not, either way I'm not out much, fun experiment.

Used motor oil or water? I'm probably mistaken, but there is carbon in the oil which might aid the hardening process in low carbon steel, but water cools faster so the carbon that is available in the steel hardens it better?

From the videos I watched, oil usually, but not always, flashes flame when the metal first goes in, but if quickly dunked, soon goes out. A big enough, steel container to completely drop the foot and shank into, with a flat top so it can be covered in case of fire could prove to be a challenge, but if not found, could rule out the oil choice. I'm a bit of a pyromaniac, but have no interest in burning down the neighborhood.

Heat the foot starting at the top of the angle, and work down to the point so the red hot doesn't go real deep, and stays fairly uniform, thus harden only the surface, leaving the rest not as hard, thus not as brittle and prone to snapping? Annealing seems like a wasted process in this application as it's such a thick piece and it won't be red hot all the way through, and be all fully hardened.

Dang, that got long, sorry, but tried to give all pertinent information.

Thanks in advance, Dale

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