Jul. 08, 2024
To see examples of heat pumps installed correctly, please see our Photo Gallery
If you want to learn more, please visit our website pool heat pump suppliers.
Most of our pool heat pumps state the required water flow rate on their specifications table. If the water flow rate is too low, then the water in the heat pump will overheat and the heat pump will switch off.
Check the water flow rate from your pool pump and through your filter to ensure that it is high enough for your pool heat pump.
Note that there is a maximum possible flow through each size of pool pipe regardless of the power of your pump. For larger heat pumps it may not be possible to achieve sufficient water flow through small pipes (eg 1.5&#; pipes). Please contact us for advice on this.
We sell water flow meters that will show you the flow rate through your pipes.
See our &#;Accessories&#; section
You should also regularly backwash your pool filter to ensure that the water flow rate remains at an adequate level.
The base for the heat pump should be level and sound. You can use either a concrete base, paving slabs laid on sand or timber decking.
The vibration from the heat pump will be fairly minimal and will not disturb the paving slabs.
The heat pump can be installed above or below water level. The only proviso is that the pool circulation pump is powerful enough to deliver the water flow rate that the heat pump needs to operate.
We also sell mounting feet and lightweight slabs to mount the heat pump on. These help to raise the heat pump off the ground and also reduce noise and vibration
While the heat pump is operating, it is normal for condensation water to drip from it &#; particularly in humid conditions. You should consider the condensate water that will come from the unit in the base design as the amount of water can be considerable and cause a pool of water to form. For example if the unit is mounted on timber decking, holes can be made in the decking to allow the condensate water to drain away and not cause rotting to the timber.
Some heat pumps have a water outlet tube that will channel the condensate water away, or a piece of hose can be attached to it to divert the water to a specific location.
Some customers mistakenly think that the heat pump has a leak when in fact the water coming from the heat pump is normal condensation
Before purchasing a pool heat pump, you should check the running current and peak current stated on the listing for your desired model.
Ensure that your electrical supply is adequate to support the running and startup currents for the unit.
It is normally recommended to run a dedicated cable back to your electrical consumer unit for the heat pump and install a dedicated breaker for the heat pump.
Most heat pumps will have a higher electrical current demand when they start. This only lasts for a millisecond or so while the compressor starts and the current then reverts to the normal running current for the unit.
The size of circuit breaker required is normally stated on the listing for each heat pump and is normally slightly larger than the startup current.
You would normally use a type &#;D&#; circuit breaker (fuse) with your heat pump. The type &#;D&#; circuit breaker allows for the higher current at startup (as the compressor starts) without tripping the breaker.
If you have a very &#;sensitive&#; electrical supply, then some heat pumps have an optional (or built in) &#;soft-start&#; option. The soft-start option &#;eases&#; in the startup current up to the running current to avoid a power spike on startup.
The soft-start kit/option is normally only required for installations using a large single phase heat pump (eg 30kw) with a limited or sensitive electrical supply. In extreme situations, the house lights may flicker or the circuit breaker trips when the heat pump starts up. The soft-start kit helps to prevent this.
The soft-start option is not normally required in the UK, or on small heat pumps or on 3-phase heat pumps. Please contact us for further information.
We sell a third-party soft start module that can be added to virtually any heat pump. This is listed under our &#;Accessories&#; section
Armoured cable is normally used to supply the heat pump. This is to prevent the cable from being accidentally damaged (eg by digging through it with a spade)
The size (thickness) of the cable required depends on the length of cable used. A longer cable run will require a thicker cable due to the increased resistance of the long cable.
The armoured cable should be run to a rotary isolator switch which should be located within 1-meter of the heat pump to allow the power to be easily killed to the heat pump
The electrical work should be completed by a qualified electrician who can calculate the cable size required.
The heat pump must also be properly earthed.
As the heat pump is outdoors, the electrical circuit should also be protected by an RCD
Most properties have a single-phase electrical supply. 3-phase electrical supply is normally only found on larger properties or on commercial installations. If you are not sure, you probably have a single phase electrical supply, but ask your electrician to confirm this for you.
Single phase supplies operate at around 230-240v in the UK and have one live wire, neutral and earth and are the most common type of power in domestic properties.
Larger properties may have a 3-phase power supply. This typically operates around 380-415v and uses three live wires, a neutral and earth wires.
Note that most 3-phase installations are 380v-415v, however in France it is possible to find both 380v-415v and some older 220v 3-phase supplies, so please check which type you have before ordering.
All of our heat pumps are manufactured to work with 50hz electrical supplies (which are used throughout Europe)
Note that in the USA, they use a 60hz electrical supply. USA specification heat pumps will not work in the UK or Europe. All of our heat pumps are made to use a 50hz electrical supply.
We can supply an electrical connection box with a built in timer for your pool pump &#; see our &#;Accessories&#; section
The electrical control boxes can be custom designed to your requirements. Please contact us for a quote.
It is easy to add a heat pump to an existing pool pipework system.
First check to see what size of pipes you have.
In the UK, these are normally 1.5&#; or 2&#; pipes. In Europe, 50mm is more common. Check the writing stamped on your existing pipes and elbows to see which size you have. Do not just measure the external diameter of the pipes or fittings as this is often different to the size required and you may accidentally order the wrong size pipe and pipe fittings !
eg 1.5&#; pool pipe measures approx 1.9&#; external diameter (the 1.5&#; refers to the internal diameter of the pipes for imperial sizes and the external diameter for metric sizes)
Once you know the existing pipe size that you have, you will know what size connectors and elbows you will need.
In the UK 1.5&#; pipes are the most common and 50mm in Europe.
Please see our Accessories section for a catalogue of pipe fittings.
If you have an existing pool heater eg gas or oil boiler, then if it still works ok, we recommend that you leave it in place and put the heat pump in line with the existing boiler.
This will allow you to run both the heat pump and boiler if required for a rapid pool heat up. The old heater can also help to supplement the heat from your heat pump in very cold weather to help extend the swimming season.
Where possible the water should run through the heat pump first and then the existing heater so that the heat pump does most of the heating work. The thermostat on the existing heater (eg gas boiler) can be set lower than the heat pump so that the existing heater will only operate if required.
There are only two pipes to the heat pump &#; a &#;flow&#; and a &#;return&#; pipe.
We recommend that you install a &#;bypass&#; arrangement with your heat pump
The bypass is a series of 3-valves. These allow you to isolate the heat pump to prevent water flowing through it.
A bypass can also allow the water flow rate to be adjusted to achieve the optimum performance for the heat pump. We are happy to advise on how to adjust the flow rate accordingly depending on the make and model of heat pump used.
Generally, you should aim for a difference between water in and water out temperatures of around 1-2 degrees
We sell bypass kits under our Accessories section
This is required in winter when you need to drain all water from the heat pump to prevent damage by freezing, however you may have a frost stat on your pool pump and may wish to continue to circulate the water round your pool pipes.
The bypass setup also allows you to adjust the water flow rate passing though our heat pump. By slghtly opening the bypass valve, you can reduce the water flow through the heat pump.
You must not allow water to freeze inside the heat pump during winter as this can crack the heat exchanger and frost/freezing damage is generally not covered by the manufacturer&#;s warranty. We sell a range of winter covers for pool heat pumps to protect your unit &#; see our Accessories section
The pipes to and from the heat pump can be insulated to help reduce heat loss.
The heat pump is normally installed as the last item in the water flow before the water returns to the pool, ie after the filter.
The only exception to this is if you have a chlorination unit in which case this should be the last item before the water returns to the pool so that concentrated chlorine does not go through the heat pump as this could cause premature corrosion to the heat exchanger.
The heat pump can be installed alongside any existing heater that you have (eg gas heater). This allows you to use the gas heater as well as the heat pump if required either to rapidly heat up the pool or if the air temperature is too cold to run the heat pump efficiently eg at the and of the swimming season.
Try to have the water going through the heat pump first and then the gas/oil heater so that the heat pump does most of the heating work and the existing boiler only needs to &#;top-up&#; the temperature
For large pools, it is possible to run two heat pumps together
or even larger pools can use four heat pumps
Multiple heat pumps can be plumbed in series or in parallel. Please contact us for advice on the best method to use for your situation.
Where possible a heat pump should always be installed outdoors as they need a constant supply of fresh air to operate and extract the heat from. However it is possible to install some models inside the plant room. For vertical fan models, ducting can be constructed to to vent the expelled air out through the wall of the building.
For horizontal fan models, they can be placed up against the wall and a hole cut through the wall in line with the fan to allow the expelled air to escape to the outside.
Recirculation of the expelled air back into the heat pump must be avoided.
For indoor installations, it is also necessary to allow air to enter the pump house. A vented door or grille should be installed at the opposite side of the pump house which is sufficiently large to allow fresh air to enter the room at the same rate that it is leaving the room.
For indoor pools, placing the heat pump inside the pool building can help to dehumidify the air by drawing fresh air into the pool room and using the heat pump to expel the humid air.
The disadvantage of this arrangement is that the air temperature inside the pool room will soon be reduced to the same as the outside air temperature. For indoor pools, this may not be desirable and some sort of air heating may then be required negating the benefit of locating the heat pump indoors.
Ducting of a vertical fan heat pump to outdoorsInstallation of a horizontal fan heat pump in a plant roomIndoor pools have different requirements to outdoor pools, the main difference being the need to dehumidify the moist air and also to heat the air in winter.
Normally for indoor pools, the air temperature should be 1 degree warmer than the pool water. eg pool water = 28c, air temp = 29c.
For indoor pools, we do sell an all in one unit from Heatstar or Calorex that provides air heating, air dehumidification, fresh air inlet and pool water heating. Please contact us for details.
There are two main options for indoor pools:-
We can also design a system which is powered by an domestic type air source heat pump, feeding a buffer tank
We offer an indoor pool design service to help select and specify all of the equipment for indoor pools
See our Indoor Pools page for more information
Our heat pumps can also be installed on hot tubs and swim spas.
Using a heat pump will normally give greatly reduced running costs compared to an electric heater and the use of heat pump on spas and hot tubs is becoming increasingly popular.
The desired water temperature can be set to a maximum of +40c
The heat pump is simply plumbed into the existing spa circuit
We recommend that the existing electric heater is retained as a backup heater to the heat pump for extremely cold (sub-zero) air temperatures
Ideally the water should flow through the heat pump first and then the electric heater second.
Please contact us if you would like any advice on incorporating a heat pump onto a hot tub or swim spa.
Below are some pictures taken from our Photo Gallery of installations made using heat pumps supplied by HeatPumps4Pools
Heat Perfector 20kw Installation in Essex UK. Unit installed on paving slabs. Pipework insulated. Existing pipework extended out of poolhouse to heat pump.Plumbing Arrangement &#; note bypass valve system to allow the unit to be isolated and drained down in the winterHeat Siphon unit installed in the South of France in .Heat Perfector 32kw unit
To see other installation examples, please see our Photo Gallery
For further pool heat pump installation tips, please also see our FAQ page
We hope you found these pool heat pump installation tips useful
We offer a full installation service for pool heat pumps using our fully qualified engineers.
Want more information on small pool heat pumps? Feel free to contact us.
Our engineers are qualified electricians and experienced heat pump engineers that will install your heat pump in accordance with the manufacturer&#;s instructions.
We can install heat pumps throughout most areas of the UK
Please contact us for an installation quotation
If you have any queries on installing your heat pump, then please contact us at
Or please use our online chat facility
A pool heat pump is the best choice for economical, on-demand pool heating. Sure, gas heats faster, but even at today's lower prices, a gas pool heater can burn through thousands of dollars in natural or propane gas every year.
Pool heat pumps use small amounts of electricity to compress a refrigerant and rotate a fan. The heat created is essentially free, absorbed from the outside air and transferred into your pool water.
Here's an example of a heat pump project progression. The 4 Ps are phases of a swimming pool heat pump installation, and they are: Purchase, Placement, Plumbing and Power.
Buying a heat pump is not overly complicated, but you want to size your heat pump correctly. If you are looking for a 20-degree temperature rise, go with the largest models for an average size pool. Smaller models may only give you a 10-15 degree rise during cooler weather.
Decide if you want any of the high-end features, such as the chill feature, which removes excess heat from the water, or want extra low temperature operation.
When you consider the wide array of heat pump models available, from over a dozen manufacturers, choosing just one can be difficult. Features such as digital display and self-diagnostics are common, as are Scroll compressors, titanium heat exchanger, or the ability to heat or cool the water.
Most important, however, would be the size of the heater. Pool heat pumps are rated by the amount of BTUs they generate, the smallest being around 50,000 BTU and going up to 150,000 BTUs. Installing an inadequately-sized heat pump can cause it to become overworked, not keep the pool as warm as you like, or take long periods of time to heat up to temperature.
The best option for aboveground pools are 50-75K BTU heat pumps, and 95-140K BTU heat pumps are better for in-ground pools. You'll never regret having a larger heater when cool and rainy weather comes around.
Heat Pump Delivery: and you must be present to inspect and sign for receipt. Inspect the unit by looking for any damage to the fins or cabinet, or any oily stains on the box that may indicate leaking refrigerant.
Be prepared for how heavy these are. Large pool heat pumps can weigh 350 pounds and are best moved by palette jack. Two strong people can carry it with two two-by-fours inserted through the palette, and another person to help steady it while moving. Heat pumps need to be kept upright at all times and could be damaged if dropped.
To prepare a location for placing the heat pump, consider this:
The heat pump is usually placed next to the pump and filter, but if you have a need to place it farther away, you can run as much pipe and wire to it as you need. The best location will be shielded from heavy winds and water from roof runoff or sprinklers. Heat pumps need to have adequate air space all around the unit, at least 2 feet on all sides, with 4 feet on the front for access in case future repairs are needed. It should have clear sky above it, without eaves or overhanging trees blocking the exhaust air.
Placing the pool heat pump in an area of direct sunlight will increase efficiency, by warming the area around the heater. If you have nearby dryer vents or furnace vents, you can recycle some of your home's lost heat with a pool heat pump drawing in the warm air, but keep the vents at least 36 inches from the heat pump.
Heat pumps are easy to plumb, just one pipe going in and one pipe coming out. You will need some basic PVC plumbing fittings, 90s, 45s and couplings, several feet of pipe, a hacksaw, and PVC glue and primer. Union connections are standard equipment with most heat pumps and allow you to drain the heat pump for winterizing or repair. Most heat pump unions are 2 inches or 1.5 inches, so you can connect either size PVC pipe.
Ideally, the pipe comes out of the filter, 90s down to the ground, and runs straight in and out of the heat pump inlet/outlet ports located at the base of the unit.
Chlorinators should be installed after the heat pump, with a check valve installed between them to prevent chlorinator backups.
To reduce resistance, make use of as few 90s elbows as possible and keep straight runs where possible. Substitute sweep elbows instead of standard elbows to reduce restriction by over 50 percent. Plumbing in 2-inch PVC pipe also reduces restriction dramatically.
To reduce turbulence, run 6-8 inches of straight pipe directly out of the heat pump, before the water encounters the first turn (90 or 45 elbow). If you have a return side valve, you can lower a return valve closer to the ground, or use a 45-degree fitting to raise the pipe back up to meet return valve height.
Pool heat pumps come with union attachments, so you can easily disconnect it and drain the heat pump for winter.
Heat pumps require a dedicated circuit with a fairly large circuit breaker. Depending on the heat pump size, it will need a 30 to 50 amp breaker. If your pool has a 100 amp subpanel by the pool, which many in-ground pools do, it's possible that you have enough leftover ampacity available to add a 30 or 40 amp breaker to the sub panel that's already there. If so, the electrical installation is made much simpler. You only need the proper sized breaker and wire and sturdy conduit and connectors to run from the sub panel to the heat pump.
If your subpanel is full-up, or you have no subpanel, just a time clock for your pool pump, then the job becomes more expensive. The cost to bring power to the heat pump will vary on the distance to the home main breaker panel, and of course you need to have enough available amps in the home main panel to add a new breaker of 30-50 amps. An experienced electrician always has a way to make it work.
In addition to bringing enough power to your heat pump to power the unit in durable conduit, your electrician should also pigtail the heat pump to the bonding wire grid.
An electrician is recommended for a heat pump installation or at least the last of the 4 Ps; the other items you can do yourself! A heat pump may cost more to install than a gas heater with a nearby gas meter, but it will heat the pool for much less than any other pool heating method.
How much less? In ideal conditions, as much as 70 percent less. This chart illustrates the cost to generate 1 million BTUs with various pool heating methods.
Visit our heat pump section to compare a huge selection of pool heat pumps.
For more information, please visit heat pump runs continuously.
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